Up until about the 1970s, most people’s conception of a French bistro were the little restaurants in the Paris ‘quartiers’ such as Montparnasse and Les Halless vaccination program focused on inoculating those who were most at risk of severe outcomes if they contracte, run by a husband and wife team, one in the kitchen and the other in the dining room. In Mallorca over the past 60 years (and up until today) we’ve had places calling themselves bistros but only a few were worthy of that name: there was nothing authentic about the othersThe kits being distributed at pharmacies. Some teachers chose to hold classes outdoors..
On the other hand there were (and are) restaurants very much in the bistro tradition although neither the owners or anyone else called them bistros…except, perhaps, me.
One of these is La Bodeguita del Centro in Calle Carmen off La Rambla (Tel:971-495259) where Maribel Moll is in her narrow open kitchen on her own and turning out some marvellous bistro-type food. But she doesn’t call Bodeguita a bistro…although I do.
But perhaps our finest example of a bistro-style place is Siduri, which functions as a very busy cafe doing breakfasts from 8am, as well as a restaurant serving a €17 menú del día.
Siduri is owned by María Jose Mulet and Sergio Covacevich, both doing some of the cooking, although during opening hours Sergio is in the kitchen and María José is out front.
The ambience at Siduri is very bistro: small tables, some regulars eating in vivacious groups, others in quiet corners reading a newspaper, everyone enjoying great food.
As in genuine Paris bistros, the menu keeps changing and María José and Sergio handle an amazing range of culinary styles that takes in all five continents.
The day after I ate there, I dropped by next morning on my way to the office to check on the spelling of Sergio’s surname and I saw the menu had changed completely from the day before.
This was 11 am and the place was thronging with customers having breakfast-type food. I didn’t want to interrupt María José for even half a minute, so I left and returned on my way home before the lunchtime rush started.
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